Climbing has definitely been an attestation of "never say never." It was just a bit of time ago that I remember thinking/saying "I will NEVER do trad...eff that!"
For you non-climbers, trad climbing (traditional climbing) is a style of climbing outdoors whereby you place your own gear/protection inside natural cracks and crevices, clip your rope to your gear, and continue climbing. This differs from my predominant style of choice - sport climbing - in which someone has already placed "permanent" bolts and anchors into the rock so all I have to worry about is clipping into those bolts as I climb. Many of the places I sport climb at are well-maintained so I'm not so worried about the bolts failing on me when trying to execute a difficult move/sequence. In trad climbing, if I mess up how I place the piece and I fall, the situation could go really badly. This added aspect of personal liability and responsibility is what deterred me from the idea of trad climbing in the first place. Example:
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| Photo from climbingtechniques.org |
In California, I was spoiled by the sport climbing day trips my friends and I would spontaneously decide on. Unfortunately (or maybe, fortunately?) for me, the local sport climbing scene in the DMV is abysmal/nonexistent. I have to travel hours away to get my sport climbing fix which is difficult given my juggling of two jobs. Enter: trad climbing.
This year, my friend, Collin, decided "Sherie Lou. You're ready to lead. You're a strong climber. Just go." Me: "Are you sure? I've never done this before, and I really don't want to kill us today." March 19, 2015 - My first time climbing at Seneca Rocks, my first trad lead (on multi-pitch for that matter!), and my first time signing a summit register. SAWEEEEET!
The experience was astounding. On the ground, I was quasi-confident, but extremely nervous - not so much in my ability to place gear or complete the climb (we were on pretty easy terrain), but more so on the pressure to not f*ck things up. I had two friends in tow, so if I did something stupid like botch the anchor, we would all go spiraling to the ground. That would suck. Alas, off I went starting off on a 5.7 called Ecstasy. It was still pretty early in the climbing season so I could see my breath in the early morning air, and I couldn't feel my fingers (a serious hindrance when trying to rock climb). I climb up to the section Collin pointed out without a hitch, feeling really good and confident about the climb and my very first trad lead EVER, set up my anchor (with maybe 1 extra piece because I wasn't sure and didn't want the whole system to crumble), and began top belaying Erica.
The day went on with Collin and I switching leads, and I just continued to grow more and more confident in the style. The second pitch I led was a stiff 5.6 (Banana)...no more than 30'...with so much loose rock I wanted to poop my pants. I was more nervous about this one given that there were less apparent placement sites for gear that I could see from the floor; it resembled face climbing more than crack climbing. I forged on anyway with the encouragement of my friends and about 3 pieces in I feel something hit my leg. Looking down I see that the 3rd piece I had placed had "walked out" of the crack and fallen on my leg. Me: "SHIT. Ok. Breathe. Don't fall. Breathe. Find a place to put a new piece of gear and keep going." Collin (who was belaying me): "You alright? You got it." After some fumbling and mild internal freakouts, I finally placed something and kept moving. That was 30' of some of the most mentally challenging climbing I've ever done in my life. As Collin and Erica approached the belay station, they also attested to the poop-inducing fear of it (even though they were top-roping). Collin also mentioned he was ready to run back in case I fell at that crux section of ALL LOOSE ROCK...and I'm like..."Huh, I could have gotten seriously injured there. Good thing I didn't fall."
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| Hangin' out (literally) above pitch 2. Erica's first multi-pitch ever! |
My last pitch I led was my favorite by far. I had planned to do the easier route, but once I got to the "fork" where I could choose, I went for the more difficult rating simply because it looked AMAZING - Gunsight to South Peak Direct, 5.4. I mentioned in my EPC post the freedom and joy I feel from the exposure of hugging rock and being mostly surrounded by air. This was all it is!
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| I'm the blue dot almost to the top of the rock. Collin in red - the ever casual belayer. |
Epics of this pitch:
- Halfway up the climb I look down at my harness and it looks sparse. Given that Collin racked my harness for me, I called down to him: "Collin! How many draws do I have!?" Collin: "12!...11!...shit...I have 2 on my harness. You only had 9!" Which by that point I only had 4 left and I had about 40 feet left of climbing to go. "Shit...ok!..."
- As I'm approaching the summit I call down again: "Collin! Where's the belay ledge?!" Collin: "Just keep going!"...a few feet later, I find myself completely run out from my last piece of protection and I'm approaching a section of rock with NO CRACKS (no bueno when trad climbing). Me: "Collin!...the belay ledge was down there!!!" Collin: "::no answer::" Me: "Shit...well...I guess I have to go up..." Luckily I found some bolted anchors for another climb that I was able to rig to bring Collin and Erica up. =]
SUMMIT!!!
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| Guidebook instructions: "Walk, crawl, or slither to the summit." Erica totally nailed it. |
And there you have it: the greatness of my first experience leading trad multi-pitch (posted super late...but better late than never?). I can see the draw of trad climbing and the freedom of it. I'm definitely excited to work on the technique and get more comfortable with all it entails =] Who'da thunk? I'm becoming a trad climber...
